Urban Agriculture | Civil Eats https://civileats.com/category/farming/urban-agriculture/ Daily News and Commentary About the American Food System Wed, 21 Aug 2024 01:33:49 +0000 en-US hourly 1 How a Community Gardener Grew Food for Her Family, Quit Her Job at McDonald’s, and Started a Farm https://civileats.com/2024/08/20/how-a-community-gardener-grew-food-for-her-family-quit-her-job-at-mcdonalds-and-started-a-farm/ https://civileats.com/2024/08/20/how-a-community-gardener-grew-food-for-her-family-quit-her-job-at-mcdonalds-and-started-a-farm/#respond Tue, 20 Aug 2024 09:00:21 +0000 https://civileats.com/?p=57290 Hernández Reyes grew up subsistence farming with her parents in Oaxaca, and the garden spoke to her. She called a number posted nearby and reached Adam Kohl, the executive director of Outgrowing Hunger, an organization that rents unused land at accessible costs to help immigrants and refugees grow their own food. Hernández Reyes was able […]

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When Maximina Hernández Reyes emigrated from Oaxaca, Mexico, to Oregon in 2001, she was still learning English, had no idea where the food pantries were, and knew very few people. She struggled to find a support system in Gresham, the suburb of Portland where she settled, until 2012, when she happened upon a community garden in the city’s Vance Park.

Hernández Reyes grew up subsistence farming with her parents in Oaxaca, and the garden spoke to her. She called a number posted nearby and reached Adam Kohl, the executive director of Outgrowing Hunger, an organization that rents unused land at accessible costs to help immigrants and refugees grow their own food. Hernández Reyes was able to secure a small plot in the community garden and started growing food for her family. This was just the beginning.

Over the next decade, gardening evolved from a hobby to a passion for Hernández Reyes, but it wasn’t how she earned her income. While she worked her way up at McDonald’s, eventually becoming a manager, she gardened on the side as a way to provide her family and neighbors with fresh produce. Eventually, she became a community leader through her work in the garden; her original plot is now an educational site where she teaches gardening to other Latinas.

Maximina Hernández Reyes grows many types of produce found in her home state of Oaxaca, Mexico, including tomatillos and herbs like epazote.

Maximina Hernández Reyes grows a range of produce, including many types of vegetables and herbs found in her home state of Oaxaca, Mexico. (Photo credit: Elizabeth Doerr)

Two years ago, Hernández Reyes had the opportunity to scale up her own growing operation and turn it into a source of income. She is now in her second season of managing a one-acre farm that Outgrowing Hunger leases in the nearby town of Boring, Oregon. While she named the operation MR. Farms after her initials, she has leaned into people misreading it as “Mister.” The business has been so successful that she was able to quit her job at McDonald’s last year and has transitioned from feeding her family to feeding—and mentoring—her whole community.

Hernández Reyes attributes her success at this food sovereignty endeavor to the support of a network called Rockwood Food Systems Collaborative (RFSC), part of a larger organization called Rockwood Community Development Corporation, which focuses on underserved areas of East Portland and Gresham. RFSC is comprised of nearly 30 organizations, including social services, food justice initiatives, and health and educational institutions.

Traditionally, food security organizations receive food from anywhere they can get it, and because donations are rarely from local growers, the system often results in processed foods and a reliance on the precarious global food system. The collaborative model, rather than providing one-way charity, is focused on mutualism and community care. Partnerships with local growers create a market that supports farmer entrepreneurship; community members receive fresh produce; and the system is more resilient to global food shortages.

“When people see these vegetables in the farmers’ market, they get really excited. They say, ‘I haven’t seen these in many years!’ or ‘I’ve been looking for these.’”

At Rockwood, when someone shows a knack for farming, especially when it benefits their community, someone from the collaborative connects them with various member organizations that can help them access resources and connections to build a successful farm business. When Hernández Reyes got involved, Outgrowing Hunger provided her with land and put her in touch with the Oregon Food Bank, which buys her vegetables for their pantries, and Rockwood People’s Market, a BIPOC-led farmers market in Gresham, where she sells produce every Sunday. She and other growers are also able to sell produce to local community members, who pay with tokens provided by food systems partners, the local low-cost health clinic Wallace Medical Concern, and the youth services organization Play Grow Learn.

The Rockwood Food Systems Collaborative is one of hundreds of similar networks across the U.S. that are serving as a model for a more resilient food and health system. Others include Hawai’i Food Hub Hui, Cooperative Food Empowerment Directive, and the Mississippi Farm to School Network. Leveraging social capital between and among institutions, these networks, along with community members themselves, create an alternative local food system. This can be particularly powerful for immigrants and U.S. noncitizens, who are twice as likely to be among the 44 million people in the U.S. facing food insecurity.

Civil Eats recently spoke to Hernández Reyes about her journey toward this collaborative model, the organizations that supported her new business, and how growing food offers freedom to immigrant families.

What do you miss most about your home in Oaxaca?

What I miss are the simple things like traditions, family, and my culture. That was before. But now we’ve built the same community here and brought our traditions here. My vegetables are part of those traditions.

At first, they only grew a little bit because I only had one plant from the seeds I brought with me. But we saved the seeds and acclimatized them and now we have more of our traditional vegetables to share with my community: tomatillos and Roma tomatoes (but not like the ones you get from the grocery store; they’re better), green beans from my state, types of Mexican corn, and pipicha, pápalo, and epazote [herbs used in traditional dishes in central and southern Mexico]. When people see these vegetables in the farmers’ market, they get really excited. They say, “I haven’t seen these in many years!” or “I’ve been looking for these.”

What is your role in the Rockwood Food Systems Collaborative and how have these connections helped you?

I was volunteering during the pandemic with Outgrowing Hunger to distribute food boxes to families. Through that, I met people from Rockwood CDC, Play Grow Learn, Metropolitan Family Service, and a lot of other organizations. Then I got involved with Guerreras Latinas [an empowerment program for Spanish-speaking Latinas] where I taught gardening through a program called Sembradoras, which was supported by funding from the Oregon Food Bank.

The connections benefit my business. When the organizations have grant money, they can purchase some vegetables from me—that way, they help me, and then I help the community. There’s this cycle. I want to keep my vegetables in the community; I don’t want to send my vegetables to the huge stores.

How did you get your business off the ground?

I started my business when I saw that my community needed the kinds of vegetables that I grow. And I was thinking, how could I sell my vegetables? I talked to Lynn [Ketch, executive director] from Rockwood CDC, and she asked why didn’t I make it a business. And I said, ‘Yes! Why not?!’ I was a gardener before, but I wanted to get to the next level of farming. I’m motivated to work hard because I want to serve my community; I want to grow more food.

“When the organizations have grant money, they can purchase some vegetables from me—that way, they help me, and then I help the community. There’s this cycle.”

At first, we didn’t have enough money to pay the rent on the land at Outgrowing Hunger. So, Adam gave me some options where I could pay after three to four months of selling vegetables. He always had somebody to help when we needed it and connected me with other organizations.

Another support was the Oregon Food Bank. Because it was my first year of farming, they gave me support by buying my products to give out in the food pantry. They pay you upfront, so with that money, I started to buy the irrigation and everything. Another organization, the Metropolitan Family Service, bought a small amount of vegetables, which helped, too.

Does growing food and the connections to the Food Collaborative offer freedom to the immigrant families in your community?

Yes, it helps a lot. Here at Outgrowing Hunger, the price for rent is not that high. And Outgrowing Hunger helps us apply for grants. There isn’t a lot of space for people to grow their own food at home, so the land for gardening helps so much. But, we need to educate people about how and where to grow fresh vegetables.

The collaborative has helped bring more information to people. For the people who can’t grow their food, the organizations buy the food, and community members receive tokens for free and can get fresh food from the farmers’ market. There are a lot of benefits—people’s hearts are better, they’re healthier, and they have less stress. There’s a lot of freedom in that.

How has working in this kind of collaborative model been different from what you experienced when you first arrived in the U.S.?

There’s a big difference. At some food pantries, they asked for your address, social security information, and documentation. Immigrants were scared to go there, because they would have to share all their information. It was also hard to find out where those pantries were. Now the food pantries don’t ask for that. But also, because of this group of organizations, there’s a lot more information about where people can get more food.

I experienced challenges before I found the collaborative. Organizations didn’t have enough Spanish speakers, and there wasn’t a lot of information available. It was hard to make connections. I also didn’t know my neighbors very well. But now, with this group of organizations, it has changed. They all have Spanish speakers, and there is a lot more information about resources available.

MR. Farms in Boring, Oregon, with Mt. Hood in the background.

MR. Farms in Boring, Oregon, with Mt. Hood in the background. (Photo credit: Elizabeth Doerr)

What kinds of community members have you met through your work with farming and the food systems collaborative?

I’ve met a lot of people since I’ve started volunteering here, and I made all these connections around my neighborhood. I talk to people and tell them what I’m doing and how I grow vegetables, and I bring them in that way. I’m building community through food. With Outgrowing Hunger, when I got started, we had two Latinos, and now we have 30 Latinos. I talk to them: “You can apply for this; you can get this resource.” I have WhatsApp, and when I learn of opportunities, I share.

One of those families was telling me they didn’t have enough money to buy food. This one woman said she tried to go to the food pantry, but they asked for all these documents. I told her, “I have some vegetables in my garden,” and she was so happy. I asked her why she didn’t have any money, and she said her husband was sick and it was just [her] working, and their rent was so high, and they have three small children. I connected her to Outgrowing Hunger, and she applied for that space in the garden, and she started growing her own vegetables.

What are your hopes for the future?

Oh, my goodness. So much. My dream is to grow my farm, to implement jobs for immigrants or anyone who wants to work. To produce more. Right now, it’s a family farm: my husband, my kids, my brothers, people in the community. I really want to build a program to give jobs to moms in the summertime. They can bring their kids and come to work. I keep thinking and thinking—and I want to do everything!

This interview was conducted in English and Spanish and has been translated and edited for length and clarity.

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]]> https://civileats.com/2024/08/20/how-a-community-gardener-grew-food-for-her-family-quit-her-job-at-mcdonalds-and-started-a-farm/feed/ 0 A Community of Growers https://civileats.com/2024/07/23/a-community-of-growers/ https://civileats.com/2024/07/23/a-community-of-growers/#respond Tue, 23 Jul 2024 09:00:48 +0000 https://civileats.com/?p=57010 The post A Community of Growers appeared first on Civil Eats.

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Can New York City Treat Its Food Scraps As More Than Trash? https://civileats.com/2024/07/15/can-new-york-city-treat-its-food-scraps-as-more-than-trash/ https://civileats.com/2024/07/15/can-new-york-city-treat-its-food-scraps-as-more-than-trash/#respond Mon, 15 Jul 2024 09:00:33 +0000 https://civileats.com/?p=56910 Its quarter-acre lot houses custom-built tool sheds and water pumps, solar panels for charging phones and e-bikes, and a motorized sifter designed by Gross. As the pair worked, a steady trickle of locals stopped at the entrance to drop off kitchen scraps—not trash, but the makings of “black gold.” Thanks to careful management, even on […]

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On an unseasonably sunny day in March, at a community garden in the Brooklyn neighborhood of Bushwick, Dan Gross and Shaq Benn moved piles of wood chips and hosed down shoulder-high windrows of compost. Tucked underneath elevated train tracks, Know Waste Lands is the home base of the compost-hauling nonprofit BK Rot.

Its quarter-acre lot houses custom-built tool sheds and water pumps, solar panels for charging phones and e-bikes, and a motorized sifter designed by Gross. As the pair worked, a steady trickle of locals stopped at the entrance to drop off kitchen scraps—not trash, but the makings of “black gold.” Thanks to careful management, even on this balmy day the steaming heaps of rotting vegetables didn’t give off an offensive odor. “I actually like the smell,” Gross said during a break from work.

BK Rot is part of a diverse ecology of community compost organizations throughout New York City. For decades, with crucial support via the city’s NYC Compost Project, community composters have taken a small but significant part of the roughly 4,000 tons of organic waste generated by New Yorkers every day and converted it into a valuable resource.

Food scraps and landscaping debris, rather than going “out of sight” to landfills, where they emit significant greenhouse gases, are transformed into material that sustains local gardens, fortifies the city’s heat-mitigating tree population, and remediates contaminated soils. Meanwhile, local residents are educated and empowered to manage their own waste, less pollution goes into transporting and processing food scraps, and community bonds are deepened.

Community composting is a cherished part of many neighborhoods throughout New York. But its future is unclear. In November of last year, under Mayor Eric Adams and his sanitation department’s new commissioner, Jessica Tisch, the NYC Compost Project was cut entirely from the city budget. So was a contract with the nonprofit GrowNYC, which operated dozens of food-scrap drop-off locations throughout the city, processing millions of pounds of scraps each year.

The cuts decimated community compost operations, costing dozens of jobs, closing down numerous processing locations, and curtailing educational programming. All to save around $7 million, a mere 0.006 percent of the city’s budget, or “less than a rounding error,” Manhattan Borough President Mark Levine said at a recent rally in front of New York City Hall.

After an immense pressure campaign by activists, members of the city council, and other elected representatives, funding was restored at the end of June. With the vote, the budget for community compost was placed under the New York City council instead of the city’s sanitation department.

“I’m hoping that this will be less up for negotiation each budget season,” says Anna Sacks, legislative chair for the Manhattan Solid Waste Advisory Board and co-founder of NYC’s SaveOurCompost coalition. “There’s so much more that we could do, and it ends up by necessity concentrating our efforts onto preserving what’s in existence, versus imagining a more expansive alternative future.”

Saved From the Trash

The NYC Department of Sanitation began supporting community composting in the early 1990s. It launched the NYC Compost Project, establishing and supporting compost operations at four of the city’s botanical gardens, along with satellite facilities at various parks and community gardens. The project also supported the beloved, now discontinued Master Composter program, to which many community composters in New York trace their roots.

As community composting evolved, the city also advanced its own curbside collection programs, which rely on contractors for transport and off-site processing. The city generates its own compost at a massive, recently expanded facility in Staten Island, though community composters note that the inconsistent separation of waste going in results in lower quality compost.  In 2016, the city’s anaerobic biogas digester in Newtown Creek began accepting food scraps. Developed in partnership with the National Grid energy company, the giant “digester eggs” receive a mixture of organic waste streams, including sewage.

Rather than creating compost, though, the process produces methane that is burned for energy (and profit), along with an organic sludge that is landfilled. Besides not building soil, critics point out, the system entrenches reliance on fossil fuel infrastructure. Often, the methane, a powerful greenhouse gas, is simply flared into the atmosphere.

Biogas and centralized organic waste collection are the other side of the community compost coin. They represent what Guy Schaffer, author of Composting Utopia: Experimental Infrastructures for Organics Recycling in New York City, calls “neoliberal waste management.”

“There’s this pattern that happens in a lot of places, where people try to fix waste problems by creating new markets for waste,” said Schaffer, who is also a board member of BK Rot. In his analysis, such market “solutions” tend to perpetuate social inequities. “We can see the setting of a price on waste so that people have to pay for it, but that often creates a situation where waste winds up getting recuperated by the most marginalized people.”

BK Rot is a somewhat unique example among the city’s community composters. Although it is largely funded by grants, including as part of a crop of new additions to the restored NYC Compost Project, it operates like a business: In exchange for a fee, the nonprofit collects organic scraps from residences and small businesses, hiring local Black and brown youth who haul the material away by cargo bike to be windrowed. The resulting compost can be bought directly onsite, or at local food co-ops, where it is sold in smartly branded pouches resembling bags of designer coffee.

“We can create a system that can actually create green jobs for young people, that can serve as a fossil-fuel-free waste alternative—and even reframe what waste is.”

The upshot of BK Rot’s work is that, along with creating a valuable resource and reducing landfill—they claim to have diverted 1.5 million pounds of organic waste to date—it provides work opportunities within a community where gentrification has made such opportunities increasingly scarce. Meanwhile, fewer food scraps fill trash bags on the street corner to attract rats, or fill up trucks and landfills that typically operate near marginalized neighborhoods.

“Bushwick is such a fascinating focal point for thinking about waste inequity and intersectional inequities as they relate to environmental justice,” Nora Tjossem, co-director of BK Rot, said. “[BK Rot] really is an answer to say, ‘Well, what if we can dream up a different system? What if we can address all of these problems at once, or at least a great number of them?’ . . . We can create a system that can actually create green jobs for young people, that can serve as a fossil-fuel-free waste alternative—and even reframe what waste is.”

Grab a Pitchfork

Each instance of community compost takes a slightly different approach, responding to local conditions and needs. They are what Schaffer calls experimental infrastructures, alternatives to the status quo established in its midst. To address the income inequities of the neighborhood where it operates, BK Rot takes a labor-centric view, making its priority one of engaging and employing local youth. Other composters may rely more on volunteer labor and try to leverage the value of the material itself, using markets to foster different relationships between communities and waste.

“These interventions are not idealistic escapes from reality,” Schaffer writes in Composting Utopia. “They remake the systems they inhabit. Community composters aren’t trying to figure out if community compost will or won’t work as a solution to New York City’s waste problems, they’re building worlds in which community compost does work, and inviting people to stop by and grab a pitchfork.”

Despite the struggles for funding, community composters remain supportive of the city’s various efforts to divert organic waste. In April 2023, Mayor Adams unveiled an initiative called PlaNYC: Getting Sustainability Done. Among its promises were an expansion of tree canopies, curbside rain gardens, and green jobs, along with a reduction in emissions. All these aims are helped by community compost, which makes the recent struggles over funding and access to land particularly vexing to community composters, who see their efforts as complementary, while noting that the city has ample funds for projects like a quarter-billion-dollar police training facility.

The Struggle Continues

The city’s restoration of the NYC Compost Project in June means that community compost can continue developing, though the form that will take is undetermined. A number of small operations will receive restored funding. “GrowNYC is no longer operating the food-scrap drop-off sites in the green market,” Sacks said. “As a result, there was money that we could reallocate to other groups. Something we as a coalition have wanted to see for a long time is not just the established community composting groups being funded by the city, but new ones that are doing great work also being funded.”

“Community composters aren’t trying to figure out if community compost will or won’t work as a solution to New York City’s waste problems, they’re building worlds in which community compost does work, and inviting people to stop by and grab a pitchfork.”

But the cuts have had lasting consequences. The nonprofit Big Reuse lost access to its Brooklyn Salt Lot site in January as result of rezoning. Since 2011, it had operated a state-of-the-art composting facility underneath the 59th Street Bridge in Queens, composting over 3 million pounds of Parks Department leaves and wood chips. Just last year, it generated 700 cubic yards of compost that went to 154 different parks, schools, community gardens, and various greening projects. The cuts to the Community Compost Project also forced Big Reuse to reduce its staff, and coincided with the loss of access to its Queensbridge site. The city’s Parks Department claimed it needed the site for a parking lot, despite owning an empty lot next door.

All of this underscores the crucial role of land, and of a positive relationship with the city, in enabling community composting. The Queensbridge site closed despite immense public outcry, expressed through representatives, petitions, letters, and public testimony at various hearings, press conferences and rallies. “It’s literally paving paradise to put up a parking lot,” said Eric Goldstein, a lawyer with the National Resources Defense Council who works to protect community composting. Other community composting operations have been disrupted at least in part, including the Lower East Side Ecology Center, Earth Matter, and all four botanical gardens.

Still, many of the city’s leaders do see the value of community compost. Twenty-nine out of 51 city council members, and four of the five borough presidents, signed letters to the mayor and New York Department of Sanitation supporting this summer’s restoration of funding to community composters. More than 49,000 New Yorkers also signed a petition demanding the same, in an effort organized by the SaveOurCompost coalition.

In parallel with the city’s expanding curbside program, community composters will again have the means to develop experimental infrastructures, while also filling the gaps within the city’s waste operations. With proper support, the diverse network of community compost operations can offer a meaningful alternative and complement to centralized, carbon-intensive systems, which in New York currently capture only about 5 percent of organics in the waste stream. The hope among community composters is that the value of what they do is now clear to the city and the public alike, and that New Yorkers will treat food scraps not as trash but an opportunity to improve life in the city.

“I hope that all this drama results in a broader public understanding of what composting is and what is required as a land-based movement,” said Gil Lopez, an activist for community compost and a member of the Queen Solid Waste Advisory Board Board. “Invisibilization of waste is what I believe the mayor and [the department of sanitation] want to make happen. This allows [and] demands the public not think about it once it leaves their home. Community composting humanizes ‘waste’ and transforms it into a local resource and tool for raising ecological literacy, civic engagement, physical activity, and local responsibility for reducing our own impact in environmental injustice.”

This article was updated to include details about New York City’s Staten Island compost facility, and to reflect that Dan Gross designed the sifter used by BK Rot.

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]]> https://civileats.com/2024/07/15/can-new-york-city-treat-its-food-scraps-as-more-than-trash/feed/ 0 Oral History Project Preserves Black and Indigenous Food Traditions https://civileats.com/2024/06/04/oral-history-project-preserves-black-and-indigenous-food-traditions/ https://civileats.com/2024/06/04/oral-history-project-preserves-black-and-indigenous-food-traditions/#comments Tue, 04 Jun 2024 09:00:13 +0000 https://civileats.com/?p=56390 He had overheard Desmond discussing seeds with his neighbor. “People have hung on to seeds even when they aren’t actively planting and tending them,” says Desmond. “They hold memories and are cherished as story and timekeeping objects.” Agriculture has been a way of life and a source of meaning and pride for Black and Indigenous […]

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Traveling through Appalachia, Tessa Desmond and her team kept hearing the seed stories. As interviewers with the Heirloom Gardens Oral History Project (HGP), they spent more than two months talking to home gardeners, cooks, farmers and local historians, learning about seeds that had become part of family lore: the fistful of crowder peas discovered in a late grandmother’s bible, a place of importance to her, or the rare collard greens seeds now named Nellie Taylor collards, which were offered by her son-in law, who plucked them from the freezer where they had been stored in a plastic bag for 30 years since her passing.

He had overheard Desmond discussing seeds with his neighbor. “People have hung on to seeds even when they aren’t actively planting and tending them,” says Desmond. “They hold memories and are cherished as story and timekeeping objects.”

Agriculture has been a way of life and a source of meaning and pride for Black and Indigenous people for centuries, shaping rituals, beliefs, and traditions. Slavery and colonialism exploited their agricultural knowledge and shattered their lives. The heirloom gardens project, a collaboration between Princeton University, Spelman College’s Food Studies program, and Ujamaa Cooperative Farming Alliance, aims to memorialize their long-held expertise and culturally meaningful foods.

For two years, students and faculty are collecting the oral histories of community members in the southeastern United States and Appalachia who are preserving their agricultural, culinary, and medicinal traditions. Oral history is a natural vehicle for these stories. For centuries, most Black Americans were denied learning to read or write, and passed information through the spoken word instead.

The HGP is not a traditional research project, says Hanna Garth, an assistant professor of anthropology at Princeton and a principal investigator with the group. It publishes the memories as raw transcripts rather than presenting them through an academic lens. “It’s how [the subjects] see their own lives,” she explains, “rather than someone from the outside reflecting on how we might see their lives.”

The transcripts are housed in an easily accessible public archive. Researchers hope the knowledge they contain will be used in various ways—for example, to create a community garden with culturally significant plants, to further explore people’s experiences, or to dig deeper into issues related to land access, gardening, farming, and food access and sovereignty.

The HGP grew out of the pandemic’s early days, when Ujamaa, a collective of heirloom seed growers, held a Zoom series with grandmothers discussing their culinary memories—including what their own grandmothers ate and grew in their gardens.

Garth and Desmond, a research scholar at Princeton and an Ujamaa board member, and HGP’s other principal investigator, then won a two-year grant from Princeton to develop the project. Once 150 interviews have been completed, Ujamaa members will be trained to continue the work and to expand its geographic reach.

Ujamaa is also tracking down the seeds mentioned in the interviews so it can provide them to farmers for growing more seeds. Seed farming offers farmers an additional revenue stream with a lighter lift than market farming, with less field time, lower seed costs, if any, and a ready market as demand for seeds outstrips supply.

If a farmer can become established as a grower of certain types of seeds, larger seed companies are more likely to contract with them to provide those seeds to a wider market. Ujamaa’s mission is to cultivate and create agency for BIPOC farmers and give their communities easy access to the foods important to them.

Civil Eats recently spoke to two of HGP’s key figures, Ujamaa  co-founder Bonnetta Adeeb and Desmond, about how HGP democratizes seed collection and knowledge-sharing while supporting diversity in the seed industry. We’ve included audio samples of oral histories from the project.

How do you decide what is a culturally meaningful food?

Adeeb: During COVID, when we lost so many seniors, we were hustling to interview elders about what was culturally meaningful. They would talk about what was in their grandmothers’, their ancestors’ gardens, what was important. What did they eat? What was medicinal? What exactly was being grown there? For about nine months, we [asked these questions] across the diaspora. We gathered this data. It was grandma approved, so our authority comes from the elders. This work is central to who we are and to having the authority to answer the question, What is culturally meaningful.

What does it mean when culturally important plants are lost?

Adeeb: African American history is being outlawed in Florida’s public schools. That knowledge is power. It’s super important [to others] to take that power, that knowledge, away, because without it, you don’t realize the strength on whose shoulders you stand.

Recently in Baltimore, there was a USDA person telling Black farmers that cowpeas were not safe for human consumption. We’re talking about black-eyed peas, one of the most important foods. It’s incumbent on us to reclaim that.

Civilization is built on the back of successful agriculture. We’re reclaiming that tradition, honoring our ancestors. Agriculture is culture. And how could you not feel better about yourself when you realize the genius of your ancestors? It was their I     ndigenous knowledge that created the benefits we have. As we celebrate them, we celebrate ourselves. It builds pride, strength, and courage, and enables us to fight another day because we ate a good meal.

Ujamaa, a Swahili word which means cooperative economics, wants to increase diversity in the seed industry and bridge the gap between prospective growers and seed companies. How will the oral history project support that? 

Adeeb: There was a loss of farmland, farm traditions, knowledge, and skills being passed from one generation to the other due to migration. A lot of our work is restoring the basic knowledge and traditions. We’d like to take that further and look at the Indigenous seed-keeping skills and technologies that develop the ‘crops’ we have today. That’s an important part of our work.

The industry is consolidating. We need to develop seed companies like ours that focus on the foods that are important to [our] communities. Who better than the farmers themselves to grow what’s culturally meaningful for them?

A lot of Black and Indigenous farmers are working full-time jobs and farming on weekends and at night. Growing heirloom varieties—seeds that reproduce like their grandparents, otherwise, we’re not eating the food of our ancestors—will create revenue and give our growers a way to hold on to their farms and increase their control.

Desmond: People have known that knowledge is valuable for a very long time, but it has been systematically diminished. Some of the most exciting stuff happening in the urban local regional food system is led by people of color. Ancestral knowledge is with the people who stayed in the rural areas who are aging out.

We want [other growers] to know how Miss Birdie May from Farmville, North Carolina, developed this really awesome system when her collards go to seed. That’s how the oral history project is growing BIPOC growers, acting as a bridge across this huge geographical divide that is the product of the Great Migration and aggravated by that history.

It sounds like the stories themselves are like seeds, germinating new information and understanding.

Adeeb: We’ve found seeds bred by incarcerated people. How could you not want to follow that story? Boleiti collard is one. I recently heard about the boleiti being important to the Lumbee [Tribe of North Carolina], who have made these delicious collard greens sandwiches out of it. That got me really excited. Even the industrial prison complex recognizes skills within the community. They knew these foods were important.

Desmond: Some might think, “Oh, this was bred in a jail. How horrible.” Then you meet the teacher of the horticulture class, and he had incredible pride. The way he tells it, folks are excited to work and be on the farm and out of their cells. They’re expressing a real creativity in plant selection are proud of the variety that they’ve developed over time. They sent collard greens to the governor’s mansion, [which] were served at a meal. …the seeds offer opportunities to find these stories, get really deep into the details, and humanize everybody involved.

Voices From the Gardens

Excerpts and audio snippets from the Heirloom Gardens Oral History Project. Text transcripts have been lightly edited for clarity.

Eulalia Williams, Farmville, North Carolina
Founder of the Farmville Community Garden. Raised in Farmville and Compton, California.

Eulalia Williams portrait

Eulalia Williams.

I would follow Granddaddy out to the garden that was plowed by the mule. We plant corn, plant fish heads under the corn. My mother would go out with the saltshaker in the morning and we’d pick tomatoes and eat those. We would harvest things in the morning, prepare them, and they’d be on the table for 3 o’clock. It was comforting to me. I wanted it and fresh vegetables again. That’s what got me into community gardening. It wasn’t community gardening—it was backyard gardening. Everyone had one.

But when I came back [to Farmville] in 2014, there were none. It’s like, “Wait a minute. We used to grow our own food here. We didn’t have to go to the grocery store.”

I hope the [community] garden encourages people to realize that you are what you eat. They have control over that. They don’t have to just settle for what can be found in the grocery store. Take that control and use it to grow up bigger, stronger, and help other people. We can do a revolution here. We can make a difference.

Vivian Fields, Farmville, North Carolina
Lifetime resident and longtime gardener.

Vivian Fields.

Vivian Fields.

It wasn’t integrated at the time, so we grew up hard in Farmville. We couldn’t hardly come across Main Street without being with the white. We fought all the time.

We always had to come to the north side to get groceries and everything. We didn’t have much money, so we all were raised on garden food and stuff. Whatever we didn’t have, we had to go to the white man and ask for it. If he didn’t OK it, we didn’t get it. I thought that was very wrong because we all were supposed to be equal.

On my side, we had chicken, hogs, turkey, and the hogs had barbecued pork and all of that. Collards and cabbages, potatoes, white potatoes, squash, and black-eyed peas was coming from the garden, so we had plenty of that.

That’s the only thing we ate was garden food. We very seldom [went] to the store and bought anything unless it was milk and bread.

Jennifer Kanyamibwa, Atlanta, Georgia
Co-founder of Plant Lady Juice Co. Born in Rwanda.

Jennifer Kanyamibwa

Jennifer Kanyamibwa.

I think whether directly or indirectly, especially if you’re a Black farmer, you’re coming from a tradition where this is something that has been passed on. Growing things is the most human thing you can do. If you go throughout Africa, you see how people use herbs and food as medicine and as celebration. It is something that’s so intrinsically African and Black and Indigenous about growing your own vegetables and plants.

A lot of the farmers we work with are very, very committed to growing things that are natural to the surrounding environment and have a lineage and a thread to things you can trace back to Africa.

Folami Harris, Covington, Georgia
Woman farmer who grows vegetables and fruits that complement African cuisines. Raised in Kingston, Jamaica.

Folami Harris.

Folami Harris.

How do I grow things that bring us back to our roots? Because it’s more than just the taste. It’s also the memories and the possibilities for intercultural connections.

Everywhere I’ve gone, I’ve been a kidnapper of seeds. There were always seeds in my luggage that I hoped Immigration would never uncover. I was always intrigued by how we took food from one place to another and how we use them differently. We never ate sweet potato leaves, but in Africa, they were interested in the sweet potato leaves. Food, its history, and the diverse ways in which we use it are very intriguing to me.

It’s my hope that as we are able to boost production, we are able to create a more vibrant impact on what everybody eats, because it will be of interest to everyone, but first and foremost to us, and maybe it will revive interest in African diaspora cuisines. When we started, there was no “High on the Hog,” no “Searching for Soul Food.” When I watch that stuff, I’m so happy.

Emmanuel Fields, Frankfort, Kentucky
His grandmother’s sharecropping experience made him turn away from a connection to agriculture and community. Creating a Master’s thesis documentary about the Kentucky’s Black farmers transformed him into a seeker of stories and steward of the land.

Emmanuel Fields.

Emmanuel Fields.

Once I started the documentary, everything changed for me. It was not just to show and shed light on stories of inequalities, but to show essentially an amazing triumph. I learned [that] our history here, especially with growing things, is not completely wrapped up in slavery, in negative mindsets, or ways that are meant to attack and push you down.

Instead, those same things are used for triumph . . . and to show you exactly how strong you are and what you’re capable of doing.It rewrote a lot of things that I had solidified in my own head about my own history, my people’s histories. A new narrative has changed a lot of the way I see and move through the world.

These are things I can attribute to being completely centered around food and farming. If I can have a positive impact on one person who could be struggling like I was at one point with a lot of deep generational racial trauma and things that are passed down, I feel I would have helped.

Tiffany Bellfield El-Amin, Madison County, Kentucky
A third-generation farmer who stewards her grandparents’ land at Ballew Estates, where she was raised.

Tiffany Bellfield El-Amin.

Tiffany Bellfield El-Amin.

Grandma would have napkins—pawpaw tubes just full of seeds—from where we had brought stuff off our farm to eat, slices of tomatoes or cucumber. They would save the seeds in a napkin, come home, dry them out. That’s what you’re supposed to do after you eat the fruit: Take the seed and do it again. There would be a countertop full of seeds, cantaloupe, melons, watermelon. They were efficient people. I was born in ‘84, but I grew up with this lifestyle of, “You want watermelon, you better grow it.”

I feel like [my grandma] was like a botanist. She would make these tomatoes. They were juicy. Sometimes they’d get so big they’re mushy, but they were good. She would save those seeds and keep growing those.

This is the first time in a while where I’ve sat and thought, “You really ain’t got no seeds of your grandma’s.” They had all dried out. I have to cultivate something that produces seeds, so my grandchildren, godchildren, and kids can keep that going, because it’s so important.

The post Oral History Project Preserves Black and Indigenous Food Traditions appeared first on Civil Eats.

]]> https://civileats.com/2024/06/04/oral-history-project-preserves-black-and-indigenous-food-traditions/feed/ 2 Mayor Eric Adams Scrapped NYC’s Compost Project. Here’s What Will Be Lost. https://civileats.com/2024/05/14/mayor-eric-adams-scrapped-nycs-compost-project-heres-what-will-be-lost/ https://civileats.com/2024/05/14/mayor-eric-adams-scrapped-nycs-compost-project-heres-what-will-be-lost/#comments Tue, 14 May 2024 09:00:48 +0000 https://civileats.com/?p=56183 The post Mayor Eric Adams Scrapped NYC’s Compost Project. Here’s What Will Be Lost. appeared first on Civil Eats.

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Despite Recent Headlines, Urban Farming Is Not a Climate Villain https://civileats.com/2024/04/03/despite-recent-headlines-urban-farming-is-not-a-climate-villain/ https://civileats.com/2024/04/03/despite-recent-headlines-urban-farming-is-not-a-climate-villain/#comments Wed, 03 Apr 2024 09:00:50 +0000 https://civileats.com/?p=55849 In this week’s Field Report, controversial research on growing food in cities, the food and agriculture impacts of the Key Bridge collapse, and more.

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At the end of January, multiple publications including Modern Farmer and Bloomberg ran eye-catching stories on the results of a research study published in Nature. Forbes declared that, “Urban Farming Has a Shockingly High Climate Cost,” a headline that was outright wrong in terms of the study’s findings. Earth.com led with a single, out-of-context data point: “Urban agriculture’s carbon footprint is 6x greater than normal farms.”

On Instagram, urban farmers and gardeners began to express anger and frustration. Some commented on media company posts; others posted their own critiques. In February, students at the University of Michigan, where the study was conducted, organized a letter to the researchers pointing out issues with the study.

The issue most cited across critiques was simple: When urban farms were separated from community gardens in the study, the higher rate of greenhouse gas emissions reported essentially disappeared.

Now, two months later, national advocates for the multi-faceted benefits of growing food and green spaces in cities are working to counter what they see as harmful narratives created by a study they say had design flaws to begin with and was then poorly communicated to the public. Of special concern is funding for the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s (USDA) fledgling Office of Urban Agriculture and Innovative Production, which Congress has been shorting since it was established. A coalition of groups have been pushing to change that in the upcoming farm bill.

“We hope the damage isn’t already done, but we fear that publicity around this paper will minimize the advocacy of urban farmers and partners over the past many years and possibly undermine the continued and necessary investment in urban agricultural communities,” reads a letter sent to the study authors by Michigan Food and Farming Systems, the Organic Farming Research Foundation, Pasa Sustainable Agriculture, and the Ohio Ecological Food and Farm Association.

“We hope the damage isn’t already done, but we fear that publicity around this paper will minimize the advocacy of urban farmers and partners over the past many years…”

Their overall critiques of the study start with the sample set of “urban farms.”

In a conversation with Civil Eats, lead author Jason Hawes, a Ph.D. student at the University of Michigan, said this his team compiled “the largest data set that we know of” on urban farming. It included 73 urban farms, community gardens, and individual garden sites in Europe and the United States. At each of those sites, the research team worked with farmers and gardeners to collect data on the infrastructure, daily supplies used, irrigation, harvest amounts, and social goods.

That data was then used to calculate the carbon emissions embodied in the production of food at each site and those emissions were compared to carbon emissions of the same foods produced at “conventional” farms. Overall, they found greenhouse gas emissions were six times higher at the urban sites—and that’s the conclusion the study led with.

But not only is 73 a tiny number compared to the data that exists on conventional production agriculture, said Omanjana Goswami, an interdisciplinary scientist at the Union of Concerned Scientists (UCS), but lumping community gardens in with urban farms set up for commercial production and then comparing that to a rural system that has been highly tuned and financed for commercial production for centuries doesn’t make sense.

“It’s almost like comparing apples to oranges,” she said. “The community garden is not set up to maximize production.”

In fact, the sample set was heavily tilted toward community and individual gardens and away from urban farms. In New York City, for example, the only U.S. city represented, seven community gardens run by AmeriCorps were included. Brooklyn Grange’s massive rooftop farms—which on a few acres produce more than 100,000 pounds of produce for markets, wholesale buyers, CSAs, and the city’s largest convention center each year—were not.

And what the study found was that when the small group of urban farms were disaggregated from the gardens, those farms were “statistically indistinguishable from conventional farms” on emissions. Aside from one high-emission outlier, the urban farms were carbon-competitive.

“They call out the fact that that tiny sample of seven urban farms that are actually production-focused, competitive with conventional agriculture, but that one line just got buried,” said Hannah Quigley, a policy specialist at the National Sustainable Agriculture Coalition (NSAC). This aspect was especially frustrating to urban farming advocates because, as the groups who sent the letter point out, one of their biggest challenges in working with policymakers in D.C. is to get them to “regard urban farming as farming.”

Hawes said he found the critiques around lumping community gardens and urban farms together “reasonable” but that he stood by the method. He hadn’t considered including backyard gardens in rural areas in the sample, he said, even though city gardens were. “We were not necessarily attempting to compare urban and rural food production,” he said. “In fact, we chose to use the word conventional specifically because it pointed to the sort of ‘conventional food supply chain,’ which is often what urban agriculture producers are attempting to intervene in.”

Not only did taking the community gardens out of the picture change the emissions results, the researchers also found that 63 percent of carbon emissions at all of the sites came not from daily inputs or lack of crop efficiency but from infrastructure, such as building raised beds and trucking in soil. But using recycled materials for infrastructure cut those emissions so much, that if all the sites had done so, that would have been enough for them to close the gap and be competitive with conventional agriculture on greenhouse gas emissions.

“That problem can of course be solved by upfront funding,” said Goswami. “Then, bingo, according to the authors, you have systems with very comparable climate metrics.”

Overall, Hawes said he did regret some of the ways media coverage framed the study’s results but that he didn’t feel the framing of the study itself was problematic. “In my opinion, the most important sustainability challenge of our time is climate change, and if we’re gonna talk about sustainability in the context of urban agriculture, we have to talk about carbon emissions,” he said.

“The most important sustainability challenge of our time is climate change, and if we’re gonna talk about sustainability in the context of urban agriculture, we have to talk about carbon emissions.”

However, while climate scientists and sustainable agriculture advocates agree that addressing the food system’s 22 percent contribution to global greenhouse emissions is critical to meeting climate goals, whether carrots are grown in gardens in Detroit and Atlanta or only on huge commercial farms in the Salinas Valley (or both) won’t likely be a deciding factor.

At an event to kick off a new focus on food and agriculture last week, Project Drawdown launched a new series that will focus on food system solutions to climate change. There, Executive Director Jonathan Foley pointed out that the vast majority of food system emissions come from a few big sources: meat and dairy production, deforestation and other land use change (a large portion of which is linked to animal agriculture), and food waste.

As Goswami at UCS noted, that broader context is essential. “The authors . . . don’t at all zoom out to compare this to agriculture’s broader footprint,” she said, so even if there weren’t clear climate benefits to urban farming—which many say the study didn’t clearly conclude—prioritizing other benefits of growing things in cities might still make more sense. Especially given the climate resilience built into decentralizing and diversifying the food system.

Land use is particularly interesting, Quigley at NSAC said, because city farmers and gardeners often reclaim spaces that might otherwise be paved over and developed, adding carbon-holding trees and plants. “Folks who are maintaining community gardens and green spaces in cities to help with water run-off and urban heat island effect providing safe places for community gatherings . . . these are probably people that would be very concerned with their climate impact,” she said. “Can you imagine if they’re gonna be like, ‘Oh my god, should I not be gardening?’”

While NSAC did not sign on to the initial letter sent by the coalition of groups, Quigley is working with those farm groups and the members have since talked to Hawes. Disagreements on the study framing still abound, but they’re now working together on policy briefs that will be available to lawmakers if the farm bill process ever picks up again and conversations around funding urban farms are once again on the (picnic) table.

“Ultimately, one of the motivations behind this study was the fact that urban agriculture is largely discussed as a really useful sustainability intervention, and this study does not take away from that conclusion,” Hawes said. “I also think that to the degree that this starts conversations about the availability of resources for urban agriculture and the support that is available to urban farmers and gardeners for creating low-carbon solutions—I’m happy with that.”

Read More:
Congress Puts Federal Support for Urban Farming on the Chopping Block
Urban Farms Are Stepping Up Their Roles in Communities Nationwide
The IPCC’s Latest Climate Report Is a Final Alarm for Food Systems, Too

Supply Chain Impacts of the Key Bridge Collapse. One of the most iconic elements of Baltimore’s harbor is the illuminated Domino Sugar sign, below which the sweet stuff can often be seen piled high on massive ships. Now, the sugar refinery is one of many food and agriculture companies that will likely be impacted by last week’s collapse of the Key Bridge, which shut down the shipping channel that leads to the city’s busy port. The port also handles imports and exports of commodity grains, coffee, and farm equipment. On Friday, representatives from the White House and USDA met with more than a dozen farm and food stakeholders including the American Farm Bureau Federation, the American Sugar Alliance, and Perdue Farms to discuss impacts on the industry. On Sunday, officials announced they are working on opening a temporary alternate shipping channel to get the port back open while the clean-up of the bridge and the stranded ship continues.

Read More:
Walmart’s Pandemic Port Squeeze
The Last Front to Save the ‘Most Important Fish’ in the Atlantic

Climate-Friendly Rice. “My dad taught me to continuously flood a rice field. If you saw dry ground in a rice field, you were in trouble,” said fifth-generation Arkansas farmer Jim Whittaker at a USDA event last week. Now, Whittaker practices a technique that alternates his rice fields between wet and dry, a system he said has cut water use and methane emissions in those fields by 50 percent. Whittaker is one of 30 farmers whose rice is now available in a two-pound bag sold by Great River Milling. It’s the first product to officially hit the market as a result of funding from the USDA’s $3 billion Partnerships for Climate-Smart Commodities project, Agriculture Secretary Tom Vilsack said at the end, holding up one of those bags. And the debut comes at a time when some lawmakers and environmental groups are lobbing criticism at the agency over its broadening definition of “climate-smart.”

Read More:
Could Changing the Way We Farm Rice Be a Climate Solution?
The USDA Plan to Better Measure Agriculture’s Impact on the Climate Crisis

Slaughterhouse Rulemaking. More than 800 comments were submitted before the comment period on the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency’s (EPA) contentious proposal to increase the regulation of water pollution from meat processing facilities closed last week. On one side of the issue, 45 environmental, community, and animal welfare organizations joined together to make a case for the most restrictive set of regulations proposed, arguing that the weakest option, which EPA has said it prefers, is “inconsistent with federal law.” “We call on the EPA to rise above Big Ag’s push to weaken this plan to reduce harms from the millions of gallons of pollution slaughterhouses and animal-rendering plants are spewing into our waterways,” said Hannah Connor, deputy director of environmental health at the Center for Biological Diversity, in a press release. Meanwhile, farm and meat industry groups including the Iowa Farm Bureau and the Meat Institute filed multiple sets of comments asking for an extension of the comment period and arguing for additional flexibilities to even the least restrictive regulatory framework proposed.

Read More:
Should a Plan to Curb Meat Industry Pollution Consider the Business Costs?
EPA to Revise Outdated Water Pollution Standards for Slaughterhouses

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]]> https://civileats.com/2024/04/03/despite-recent-headlines-urban-farming-is-not-a-climate-villain/feed/ 1 A TED Talk Put Ron Finley on the Map. 10 Years Later, the ‘Gangsta Gardener’ Is Going Strong. https://civileats.com/2024/01/09/a-ted-talk-put-ron-finley-on-the-map-10-years-later-the-gangsta-gardener-is-going-strong/ https://civileats.com/2024/01/09/a-ted-talk-put-ron-finley-on-the-map-10-years-later-the-gangsta-gardener-is-going-strong/#comments Tue, 09 Jan 2024 09:00:34 +0000 https://civileats.com/?p=54937 Finley has become famous for planting avocados, bananas, mangoes, and sugar cane in and behind his house in a spot where there was once an Olympic-sized swimming pool and making it available to community members in exchange for small donations. He organized against regulation that prevented Angelenos from curbside gardening, and went on to launch […]

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It has been 10 years since Ron Finley, the “Gangsta Gardener,” changed the trajectory of his life with a TED Talk about food apartheid in his community, South Central Los Angeles. The talk has been viewed nearly 5 million times since then, and one of its most memorable lines—“Growing your own food is like printing your own money”—has since become the seed of Finley’s burgeoning philanthropic work.

Finley has become famous for planting avocados, bananas, mangoes, and sugar cane in and behind his house in a spot where there was once an Olympic-sized swimming pool and making it available to community members in exchange for small donations.

“This all started because I needed some healthy food.”

He organized against regulation that prevented Angelenos from curbside gardening, and went on to launch a nonprofit, the Ron Finley Project. And yet he says he’s still amazed by the impact of the TED Talk and the number of doors it has opened for him and his work.

In recent years, Finley has become one of the most popular teachers in the online education series MasterClass, and he has been invited to speak in a wide range of far-flung places including Greece, Sweden, and Denmark. And in 2024, Finley and his staff will curate an art show called “Breath(e): Toward Climate and Social Justice” at The Hammer Museum in Los Angeles.

“Who could plan it? Because I planted some food, I get to speak at Sheffield University in London,” Finley told Civil Eats. “The audience is not comprised of academics, so I bring this down so that everybody will understand. [People] don’t understand how big a compliment it is to me when I get told that me being real is what resonates.”

A Campaign to ‘Plant Some Money’

In late 2022, Finley collaborated with the national advertising company BBDO on a short promotional film, “Plant Some Money,” about gardening as a solution to food apartheid. The film, which was awarded a Bronze Lion award at the 2023 Cannes Lions International Festival of Creativity, captured a day when Finley and dozens of advocates marched three miles from the Anacostia Park to the National Mall in Washington, D.C. The distance marks the average stretch that those living in economically marginalized U.S. communities must travel to access fresh produce.

Following the march, Finley planting seeds attached to paper “money” printed especially for the event outside of the Federal Reserve. The bills had the Gangsta Gardener’s face on them and included the total value of the produce that could be grown with the seeds: $20 worth of rainbow carrots, $25 of arugula, $100 of collard greens, and $150 of cherry tomatoes.

In addition to the march and the short film, the Ron Finley Project has been offering folks who live in food deserts a chance to sign up for a free starter gardener kit that includes the bills with seeds attached and instructions on how to plant them. Since March 2023, the campaign has distributed more than 2,000 bills around the U.S. and beyond. And while it’s hard to say how many of those seeds were planted, the Ron Finley Project estimates the produce that they yielded could add up to $290,000 saved on produce.

“We hope that the people struggling to have access to fresh produce across the country can get inspired by Ron and start growing their own food not only as a means of sustenance but also as a form of protest against a system that perpetuates food inequality,” added Rafael Gonzaga, BBDO LA’s executive creative director.

A Web of Projects and Impacts

While seated on a bench inside his Los Angeles farm, Finley reflected recently on his journey with a combination of swagger and humility.

Finley, a father of three, grew up in South Central and has worked as a fashion designer on and off for years. According to Vogue, he designed clothes for Will Smith, among other L.A. celebrities and launched a brand of his own in the early 2000s. But he turned to gardening when his career hit a rocky period. “This all started because I needed some healthy food,” he said.

Now, educators often turn to Finley for inspiration. Take Hailey Wolfe, a kindergarten teacher at Vollentine Optional Elementary School, in North Memphis, Tennessee. The school is the alma mater of rapper Juicy J and not known for its test scores or affluence. In the last year, however, Wolfe and her class have garnered statewide attention for an urban gardening-focused curriculum that she developed based on Finley’s work and introduced to her class during Black History Month.

“The goal was to teach a lesson on plants and animals—super redundant and boring,” Wolfe said. “I wanted to find a newer, relevant person who was changing the world of gardening. Our art teacher told me about Ron, and I reached out [on social media]. He was ready to help.”

Wolfe began learning about Finley’s gospel on gardening over the phone. Then he made appearances in her classroom virtually and his team sent seeds to her classroom.

“If you’re living in a food desert, you just have the corner store,” Wolfe said. “I would have to tell them [to eat] just one bag of Takis, not two. But once they started learning about Ron, they were excited about growing arugula, tomatoes, and kale. The parents even started wanting their own plants and my fruit salad recipe. . . . The main thing we’ve learned from Ron is that you don’t have to be a gardener. You can just [focus on accessing nutritious food] for your community and for yourself.”

Self-reliance is a key part of what Finley seeks to impart. He has often set his own rules and brings a sense of optimism to everything he does. Training children to see themselves and the world differently is an essential part of that work.

Finely joins students virtually as they learn about gardening and self-reliance. Students receive paper Finely joins students virtually as they learn about gardening and self-reliance. Students receive paper

Finley joins students virtually as they learn about gardening and self-reliance. Students receive paper “money” embedded with seeds to plant at home. (Photo credit: Hailey Wolfe)

“What if we train kids in elementary school to have worm farms, rake Mrs. Johnson’s leaves, and then turn them into compost to sell back to her?” he proposed. “The lessons are about making sure kids know there are resources all around them. And they’d be getting paid—that’s the sexy part. We’d be training Earth warriors, and they wouldn’t even know it.”

Wolfe’s “Earth warriors” are growing in number, since she was recently hired on by a Tennessee-based health system to teach some of the Finley curriculum to a wider audience.

Back in Los Angeles, Finley admits he isn’t your typical gangster. He neither drinks alcohol nor consumes drugs, despite the moniker. (Last summer, he served as a 1% Percent for the Planet partner for the non-alcoholic beverage brand, Seedlip.) The bulk of the funding for his nonprofit comes from his speaking engagements at conferences and other events. In those settings, he said, he often draws the connection between fresh fruits and vegetables and chronic illness.

“In every room where I speak, I ask people to raise a hand if they knew someone who died of diabetes or cancer,” he said. “Pretty much everyone raises their hand—we’re talking 600, 700, 1,000 people. That brings me to tears almost every time. These are curable diseases. One tiny ass seed has a force in it to change that.”

Finley also shares his urban gardening lessons with whomever will listen. For instance, the Today Show’s Al Roker recently built a raised garden bed while getting step-by-step instructions from Finley. But Finley doesn’t keep track of the number of people who come to the garden to pick whatever produce their hearts desire. He said he created the garden with abundance in mind, not limitations.

“People come and don’t want to leave,” he said. On hot summer days, he added, “they notice that the temperature drops around this part of the parkway, they notice the colors and they smell the difference. . . . One kid started saying, ‘That’s my jungle.’”

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]]> https://civileats.com/2024/01/09/a-ted-talk-put-ron-finley-on-the-map-10-years-later-the-gangsta-gardener-is-going-strong/feed/ 1 JM Fortier Wants to Help More Small-Scale Farmers Grow Vegetables in Winter https://civileats.com/2023/12/18/jm-fortier-wants-to-help-more-small-scale-farmers-grow-vegetables-in-winter/ Mon, 18 Dec 2023 09:00:33 +0000 https://civileats.com/?p=54720 A version of this article originally appeared in The Deep Dish, our members-only newsletter. Become a member today and get the next issue directly in your inbox. “Here we are in mid-November, and we’re just under 10 hours of daylight [a day],” said Fortier, who added that the challenges of growing in winter have always been much […]

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A version of this article originally appeared in The Deep Dish, our members-only newsletter. Become a member today and get the next issue directly in your inbox.

On a recent video call, the renowned Canadian market farmer and educator Jean-Martin “JM” Fortier stood in a greenhouse, wearing a winter vest and talking about the wide variety of fresh herbs and greens—from sweet spinach to cilantro to frilly mustard greens—tucked snugly into rows behind him.

“Here we are in mid-November, and we’re just under 10 hours of daylight [a day],” said Fortier, who added that the challenges of growing in winter have always been much more about lack of light than temperature. “We got all our crops in a greenhouse, eight to 10 weeks ago, and now the crops will be staying in the ground, not really growing anymore because there’s not enough light, but just staying in a cool place. We will harvest them every week until the growth picks back up in February.”

“After COVID, there was a big push for more super high-tech greenhouses where they grow tomatoes, peppers, and even strawberries, but no one was talking about lower-tech greenhouses growing greens that are super hardy.”

For the last few years, Fortier and Catherine Sylvestre, a professional agronomist and director of vegetable production at the Ferme des Quatre Temps or Four Season Farm—one of three farms at the heart of Fortier’s Market Garden Institute—have gotten serious about winter farming. When the pandemic disrupted multiple supply chains and made it challenging to get fresh vegetables from southern climates in Eastern Canada, policymakers in the region started thinking seriously about food sovereignty. As Fortier writes in the introduction to his new book, The Winter Market Gardener: A Successful Grower’s Handbook for Year-Round Harvests:

“In Quebec, one of the main policies was a massive investment program to double the number of greenhouses within five years. . . . Unfortunately, the idea only got picked up by large-scale producers . . . [who] grow summer crops in monoculture regardless of the season.

Catherine and I decided then to propose our alternative: to invest the same amount towards better equipping and educating 50 family farmers, so that they can use greenhouses and extend their growing season to provide a diversity of seasonal and local produce.”

The book, the second for Fortier—who also teaches the Market Gardener Masterclass (from which more than 4,000 students have graduated) and whose institute has also sparked a restaurant, magazine, and reality TV show—expands on the existing literature on winter farming. It takes a research-based, data-backed approach that he hopes will inspire a whole generation of small-scale farmers to consider growing food in winter.

Civil Eats spoke with Fortier about the book, the history of winter farming, and what it might take to get more people to love the taste of winter greens.

Winter farming is often seen as a missing piece of the local food puzzle, because that’s when consumers are especially reliant on produce from places like California, Mexico, and Florida. Why did it feel important to take a data-driven, highly scientific approach to this guidebook to start filling in that gap?

When I was a younger grower, I was really influenced by Eliot Coleman, who pioneered modern winter farming [in the U.S.]. And I had some anecdotal experiences on my farm where I was doing winter farming and trialing it. Then around six years ago at Ferme des Quatre Temps (FQT) Farm, Catherine and I started to do some research trials, where we tested out planting different cultivars at different times of year. And after a few years, we really got the hang of it.

After COVID, there was a big push for more super high-tech greenhouses where they grow tomatoes, peppers, and even strawberries, but no one was talking about lower-tech greenhouses growing greens that are super hardy.

And so the book is about getting the message out there that food sovereignty is about having produce in the winter that is in tune with the seasonality, with the low-light conditions, with the coldness. And these are the crops that we grow. It was also about sharing all the research that we have done at FQT Farm, and sharing it so that other growers can apply some of these principles and have success on their own.

And nutritionally, the greens that you’re growing are very different than tomatoes and cucumbers and strawberries, right?

Yeah, that’s what we’re realizing here. People assume that cold is something that stops us from growing vegetables in the Northeast, but because of the coolness factor, our veggies have very concentrated sugars; their Brix level goes up, and their nutrient density goes up. And when these vegetables get a light frost, they change and become so incredibly flavorful.

Can you describe this idea of “hardening” the vegetables? It sounds almost like you’re able to train the plants to adapt to the cooler temperatures.

When we start to get cool [autumn] nights on the farm, I leave the [row covers] open on the greens beds for two or three weeks, so that they get acclimated slowly to frosty nights. Then when we have colder nights in December and January, these crops will be able to handle it. Some of them can get a hard frost and survive; kale, spinach, and others can get a light frost.

I loved your description of rolling back the cloth and seeing the frozen vegetables, but then watching them come back to life as the day warms up.

Every fall at FQT farm we train 10 apprentices, and we bring them out when there’s a frost, and they’re always super disappointed. They’re like, “Oh, after all our effort putting these tunnels up, the crops are dead.” And then we laugh because the next day, we’re like, “Come on, and check it out.” We take the snow out of the beds and the crops are fine.

How did you arrive at the idea to use greenhouses that are just warm enough to prevent freezing of some crops at night?

We knew from visiting other farms and reading writing by Coleman and other growers that it was possible to grow vegetables in winter. But is it economically viable? That’s really the question we were asking ourselves when we started out. We measured the yield harvested when we planted the crops at different times in the fall—before the 10-hours-of-sunlight cutoff [which is different in different places]. We also measured the cost of the operation, including the energy cost for heating greenhouses and the cost of labor involved in rolling and unrolling the row covers day and night. We did the math on all these different techniques. And what we were trying to find is the sweet spot where we have [ample] yields and an economic upside. We’ve also been experimenting with going carbon neutral with different heating systems with water tubes and electric heat pumps.

We wanted to reinvigorate younger growers and get them excited about the possibility of growing year-round. If they already have markets and infrastructure, we’re saying why not try to make the most out of them and go year-round?

Do you have thoughts about what it might take to get more people to eat the kinds of vegetables you’re growing? We know there’s an appetite for tomatoes, cucumbers, and strawberries. But some consumers are less familiar with Asian greens and bitter greens and other different flavors.

That’s an important element. All the farms can grow year-round, but then they need to have markets. And [there] have been pockets of places where people are so excited about local foods, especially in the Northeast, Maine, Vermont, upstate New York. There are a lot of places where there’s demand and consciousness around the local food systems and the impact of the globalized economy. People are more aware than ever.

But if this is going to go further, there needs to be a collective movement toward food sovereignty. And I believe food sovereignty should be localized at the state or province level. Each state should have a policy of resilience, especially in the face of climate change and future pandemics. We can grow almost everything! So, why would we want to import so much of it from abroad? There’s an environmental cost to that, and there’s a social cost. Our work is nested in a bigger movement, which is about decentralizing the food system and empowering communities with access to super healthy, local foods.

This interview has been edited for length and clarity. 

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]]> New Orleans Urban Farmers Prepare for Overlapping Climate Disasters https://civileats.com/2023/10/19/new-orleans-urban-farmers-prepare-for-overlapping-climate-disasters/ https://civileats.com/2023/10/19/new-orleans-urban-farmers-prepare-for-overlapping-climate-disasters/#comments Thu, 19 Oct 2023 08:00:19 +0000 https://civileats.com/?p=53884 “We’re able to be adaptive and react to the crisis and individual needs,” said Margee Green, a fruit tree farmer and the nonprofit’s executive director. “Everybody pulls together whatever resources.” Historically, the crises they’ve responded to have almost always been hurricanes. But this year, Louisiana experienced overlapping climate disasters: the largest wildfire in the state’s […]

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Whenever a disaster strikes in Louisiana, Sprout NOLA springs to life to offer technical assistance to farmers, helping them navigate a wide range of challenges. The nimble group of New Orleans urban farmers and food justice advocates travels directly to farms across Louisiana to offer funds, lend tools, rehome animals, organize volunteers, distribute food, and help farmers with post-disaster paperwork.

“We’re able to be adaptive and react to the crisis and individual needs,” said Margee Green, a fruit tree farmer and the nonprofit’s executive director. “Everybody pulls together whatever resources.”

“It has been a really rude awakening of our understanding of our capacity, and we are stepping up.”

Historically, the crises they’ve responded to have almost always been hurricanes. But this year, Louisiana experienced overlapping climate disasters: the largest wildfire in the state’s history, record-breaking temperatures, and a developing crisis of saltwater intrusion moving from the Gulf of Mexico up the Mississippi River due to historically low water levels. While most of New Orleans will likely be spared, the salt water intrusion issue is not going away.

“It has been a really rude awakening of our understanding of our capacity, and we are stepping up,” said Green.

She has seen nearly half of her orchard wither in this year’s heat, but she’s most concerned about other farmers—who operate on thin margins and depend on growing crops to make a living. It has been so hot that seeds have failed to germinate, and farmers have had to dig wells for the first time.

Sprout NOLA fills in a critical gap, mainly working with the farmers who tend to be left out of government-level disaster support services. They range from small-scale farmers in New Orleans to LGBTQ and BIPOC farmers throughout the state and most lack crop insurance.

Civil Eats spoke with Sprout NOLA’s Mina Seck and Green about establishing new protocols, helping farmers navigate the new normal, and how the organization is preparing the region’s farms for an increasingly volatile climate future.

Margee Green is a fruit tree farmer and executive director at Sprout NOLA. (Photo courtesy of Sprout NOLA)

Margee Green is a fruit tree farmer and executive director at Sprout NOLA. (Photo Photo by Lizzy Unger.)

How has this season been different for you with the wildfires and heat? How has it affected farmers that you work with? 

Mina Seck: This summer, the heat broke records and was just absolutely abnormal. But I’m really feeling the effects of the lack of rain. Usually summers are really hot, but we get a lot of rain. We’d get those afternoon rains and the clouds would roll out—clouds really matter. Your soils were not being directly pounded by the sun. The drought really, really was rough.

In the community garden where we grow our food, we plant cover crops every July and August anyway. It’s a standard thing we do [because] it’s too hot to grow food in the summer. The heat has affected being able to start production in September though, and that’s what’s scary. We do food systems work. We want to be able to grow food for people. The soils were just so dry, even with the cover cropping. It was hard to keep them slightly moist, even covering them with banana leaves.

Being able to get seeds to germinate with the heat and lack of water has been an issue that I’ve seen farmers come up against. The soil in New Orleans, and in other parts of Louisiana, doesn’t retain much water.

We’re figuring out how to move through heat and drought as a [new form of] disaster this year and in coming years. We reached out to some funders to see if it would be possible to offer farmers help mitigating this part of the climate disaster, whether through digging wells or [buying] shade cloth. We were able to offer micogrants.

And we’re in the planning stages of hosting a climate gathering in January. I’m really excited about that. It’s going to be a space where we offer technical assistance to farmers, growers, and community members about what to do in the heat.

How could saltwater intrusion potentially impact farmers in Louisiana?

Seck: We’re still waiting to see what happens. We’re working in partnership with Louisiana State University’s AgCenter and other organizations to keep up to date. When salinity reaches a high level, it can affect farmers and urban growers as plants may not survive, but it’s still a developing situation. Mulching, reverse osmosis, and injecting water with sulfur or sulfuric acid are some ways farmers can try to deal with it. We can offer folks tips and tricks on how to handle high levels of salinity as it pertains to growing. We’re planning a saltwater townhall meeting with LSU ag experts.

The community garden at Sprout NOLA. (Photo courtesy of Sprout NOLA)

The community garden at Sprout NOLA. (Photo courtesy of Sprout NOLA)

It sounds like the support you typically offer farmers during hurricanes doesn’t work for other climate impacts, such as extreme drought.

Margee Green: With hurricanes there’s the path of the storm. For the most part, only 20 to 50 farmers [within our network] will be impacted. It’s not every single farmer.

We are stepping up. It has taken us working in a coalition. We work with the Louisiana Small-Scale Agriculture Coalition to address heat and drought. It’s not really helpful to move alone on something that’s so widespread.

A lot of the farmers we work with had to go out and get pumps for their first-time irrigating. We can offset the costs of digging a well. But in terms of a climate resilience strategy, wells are not perfect, because we’re also running low on groundwater.

What options have you had to support farmers during hurricane season this year? 

Green: During Hurricane Ida, we found that a lot of the paperwork and federal programs were very difficult for farmers to navigate. We noticed that it caused farmers [to experience] a lot of mental health issues while trying to navigate programs in the wake of a storm, especially without connectivity.

We’re going to pay people to sit with farmers and help them navigate all that paperwork. We have the structure built out and ready to deploy when it’s needed. In the past, we did this de facto, by the seat of our pants. But for this hurricane season, we have all the procedures in line, all the paperwork printed and all the iPads ready. We’re actually studying the effects of having a buddy in paperwork navigation on farmer mental health.

And because it’s a university grant, we were able to pay for $50 gift cards for farmers to participate so that we can use their anonymized data. That’s incredibly helpful for restocking their fridge. And then in a follow-up, where [we look at the program’s] impact after a storm, we can give another gift card.

We also have a call-in line. Immediately, in the wake of a named storm, we have a phone number for farmers and food systems people to call. We don’t have to do any organizing after the storm hits on how we are all touching base. We have a standing calendar meeting three times a week. [This is helpful] because there is often a duplication of efforts post-storm. I went through Katrina and Ida here; you don’t want to have 16 different people doing something individually that could be done better together.

One of the big things we want to drill into people—because they get overwhelmed after a storm—is that we have systems, so that nobody wakes up the morning after a storm and has frenetic energy and doesn’t know where to direct it.

The interviews have been edited for length and clarity. 

This article was produced in partnership with Nexus Media News

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]]> https://civileats.com/2023/10/19/new-orleans-urban-farmers-prepare-for-overlapping-climate-disasters/feed/ 1 Op-ed: 4 Solutions to Make Urban Ag Policies More Equitable https://civileats.com/2023/09/21/op-ed-4-solutions-to-make-urban-ag-policies-more-equitable/ Thu, 21 Sep 2023 08:00:20 +0000 https://civileats.com/?p=53367 McDurly and other volunteers in this primarily African American community have spent many weekends planting seeds and tending crops in the park’s community garden, established in 2020 by Black Star Farmers, a local activist group fighting for land and food sovereignty. But in July 2021, McDurly stumbled upon an unexpected scene during her routine walk: […]

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Every morning, Janet McDurly, a 60-year-old resident in South Seattle, Washington, walks half a mile to catch her bus to work. On her way, she routinely passes Jimi Hendrix Park, a 2.3-acre community park located in Seattle’s Central District.

McDurly and other volunteers in this primarily African American community have spent many weekends planting seeds and tending crops in the park’s community garden, established in 2020 by Black Star Farmers, a local activist group fighting for land and food sovereignty.

But in July 2021, McDurly stumbled upon an unexpected scene during her routine walk: the garden had been bulldozed. Together with its police and parks departments, the City of Seattle had violently leveled the vibrant and inclusive garden that had nourished food- and nutrition-insecure residents.

A 2021 post from Black Star Farmers calling attention to the City of Seattle's efforts to shut down the group's farm in Jimi Hendrix Park. (Photo courtesy of Marcus Henderson, Black Star Farmers)

A 2021 post from Black Star Farmers calling attention to the City of Seattle’s efforts to shut down the group’s farm in Jimi Hendrix Park. (Photo courtesy of Marcus Henderson, Black Star Farmers)

For McDurly, the loss was part of the larger pattern of gentrification and displacement of Black residents she has witnessed in recent years. She also felt frustrated by the city’s sabotage of residents’ efforts at food sovereignty.

“Every time our community tries to foster opportunities to feed ourselves and communities like ours across the city, the city take [opportunities] away from us,” McDurly said.

Funded by a diverse range of city funds and donations from local organizations, Jimi Hendrix Park was built in December 2011 to be an inclusive green gathering place, as well as a “primary focal point for multicultural events, gatherings, and activities for the community.”

“Racist and inequitable systems have prevented African Americans from fair participation in our country’s economic system and from accessing healthy, affordable foods.”

Before the farm’s destruction, it was healthy and thriving, yielding lettuce, cucumbers, squash, zucchini, and other foods. Black Star founder Marcus Henderson noted that the purpose of the farm (like the other Black Star-run farms across Seattle) was to help create self-sufficient communities and address the food insecurity experienced by communities of color in the Seattle area.

Henderson had hoped that the farm would be able to provide consistent yields of food to donate to local organizations for further dissemination to members of the community. “We really need to create more opportunities for folks to be able to grow food on the land,” Henderson said in a July 2021 Seattle Emerald article.

As egregious and disheartening as the upending of Jimi Hendrix Park may seem, the removal and/or threatening of Black-run or owned community gardens by local city agencies is unfortunately not new.

Up until 2013, many Black residents in Detroit were not able to cultivate food for their communities due to urban agriculture ordinances and zoning laws that prevented residents from operating urban farms on public city-owned land.

In Baltimore, urban agriculture is permitted on city-leased land. But that land is also in demand. Cherry Hill Urban Community Garden, a 1.5-acre urban farm managed by the Black Yield Institute (BYI) on city-leased land, received an eviction notice in spring 2021. Baltimore City, which had proposed building affordable housing units on the land that houses the community garden, notified BYI of its imminent removal by the end of 2021.

Many community members and researchers believe, however, that affordable housing units and community gardens can co-exist as they do in other sites throughout the U.S. They see the recent events as yet another example of African American communities bearing the burden of inequitable urban policy that has historically and disproportionately robbed Black people of opportunities to thrive.

Indeed, incidences like those in Seattle, Detroit, and Baltimore are a part of a larger pattern, one that is rooted in racist and inequitable systems that have prevented African Americans from fair participation in our country’s economic system and from accessing healthy, affordable foods.

Since Union Army Major General Gordon Granger announced the freedom of enslaved African Americans in Galveston, Texas, in 1865, our country has not made enough progress on the disproportionate obstacles facing Black people related to food security, access, and sovereignty.

And while African Americans in our country have in many instances been released from the physical shackles and bondage that our ancestors once endured (aside from mass incarceration), we still all to some extent endure the social, economic, and mental shackles that the Atlantic slave trade imprinted on generations of our families.

“Although what is required to right the wrongs of the past and prevent future inequities can feel daunting, there are some things we can do now to make strides in ensuring equitable food systems for all.”

Although what is required to right the wrongs of the past and prevent future inequities can feel daunting, there are some things we can do now to make strides in ensuring equitable food systems for all.

First, deviating from the recent Supreme Court case rejecting affirmative action in college admissions, we must make sure that we include race as an indicator in data tools that assist all levels of government in the allocation of money to communities. There has been a wealth of concern from the public and government advisory councils that current models will continue to perpetuate the inequities and injustices that have caused communities to live with food insecurity.

Secondly, we must revisit “40 acres and a mule”—the land promised to formerly enslaved African Americans, which many experts have evaluated at $6.4 trillion. Many scholars and members of the community agree that land is wealth, and the historical withholding and stealing of land from African Americans has contributed to the disproportionate lack of land we have today on which to grow food, both at local and industrial scales. It has also hindered Black people’s ability to fairly participate in the food supply chain, as well as real estate and trade.

Jubriel Holman, 15, Kujan Buggie, 14, and Emmanuella Jean-Pierre, 15 look over sprouts before they plant them at the Hattie Carthan Community Garden in the Bedford-Stuyvesant neighborhood of Brooklyn July 9, 2009 in New York City. A number of inner-city youths have been planting vegetables in the garden for an upcoming farmers market-style sale, for which community members will be able to buy the locally-produced food with cash or even with public assistance food cards. Community gardens are growing in number in urban areas around the country, as environmental concerns dovetail with inner-city rebirth to create new ways for underprivileged families to buy fresh food. (Photo by Chris Hondros/Getty Images)

Jubriel Holman, Kujan Buggie, and Emmanuella Jean-Pierre look over sprouts before they plant them at the Hattie Carthan Community Garden in the Bedford-Stuyvesant neighborhood of Brooklyn in New York City. Inner-city youths planted vegetables in the garden for farmers market-style sales to community members with cash or even public assistance food cards. (Photo by Chris Hondros/Getty Images)

To help address these historical injustices, the federal government and U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) should develop a community and research task force to analyze and report on how much land was taken from African Americans due to unjust land ownership policies. The USDA should then call on Congress to pass legislation that will give the USDA, partner federal agencies, local governments, and communities the authority to develop programs that offer reparations to historically burdened communities in the form of land, to be used for agriculture and other wealth-generating activities like real estate.

Third, in many cases, community gardens that are operated by Black-led organizations, like BYI in Baltimore, should be allowed to purchase publicly owned land by way of local “lease-to-own” programs , which would increase the sustainability and fostering of long-term gardens. It would also improve communities’ ability to create food sources and hubs they can rely on to obtain fresh, nutritious, and affordable foods—foods that have become inaccessible because of inadequate public transit systems and rising supermarket prices.

Lastly, the 2023 Farm Bill must be focused on advancing racial equity, especially for Black farmers, who have historically been excluded from participating in the industry via inequitable government policies. USDA must include provisions in the bill that ensure improved funding access for Black farmers, as well as increased opportunities for training and development programs to help develop the next generation.

In addition, the farm bill must require the reporting of data that sheds light on the demographics of funding recipients. This will allow for more transparency in the loan allocation process and help ensure that Black farmers are able to obtain a fair chance at federal funding opportunities. It will also highlight inequities in the lending process that need to be addressed.

“I believe we can work together to find new and innovative ways to ensure that everyone has a fair chance at life, and at eating well.”

We must ensure that communities—like those near Jimi Hendrix Park in Central Seattle—are driving programs aimed at increasing the accessibility and affordability of fresh and nutritious foods. We must create laws and policies that amplify community voices, that are responsive to community needs, that are transparent in their reporting of data, loan, and award allocation, and that ensure equitable access to training and development programs.

While our country has made great strides to ensure the “freedom” for all people, regardless of race and socioeconomic status, there is still a wealth of progress to be made. But I believe that land access and health disparities disproportionately experienced by those in Black communities can be addressed with deep and genuine systemic change.

I am convinced that we can work together, across the aisle, to find new and innovative ways to ensure that everyone—in every American city and town—has a fair chance at life, and at eating well. And I’m hopeful we can dream big and work together toward a future that is more equitable and inclusive, and that ensures food sovereignty for all.

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